Eizo CG243W calibration Options

[erick.boileau]

Do you think that the settings are ok ?

can I get a black level smaller than 0.2 ?
what can I do better ?



I am on MAC PRo with Snow Leopard

thank you

This post has been edited by erick.boileau: Nov 7 2009, 03:04 AM

[Gigapixel]

Do you think that the settings are ok ?

See this review (in German only) for details

http://www.prad.de/new/monitore/test/2009/...243w-teil7.html

They achieved an *uncalibrated* black level of 0.16 cd/m^2 (brightness of 70 cd/m^2) to 0.20 cd/m^s (brightness of 140 cd/m^2)

So your value for the lowest *neutral* black seem to be in spec

Due to the nature of the panel type used in the CG243W (H-IPS) the black level would't go as low that of monitors with S-PVA-panels like the CG242W/CG241W, which can be as low as 0.1 cd/m^2. The achieved values depend also on the measurement device used.

can I get a black level smaller than 0.2 ?
what can I do better ?

You can try to calibrate with priority set to "contrast" instead of "gray balance", which sometimes lightens up the black considerably to get a *neutral* black. My CG242W with DTP94b measurement device and a target brightness of 100 cd/m^2 would go as low as 0.12 cd/m^2 with the "contrast" setting, but reaches "only" 0.15 cd/m^2 with the "gray balance" setting:



P.S. I use a MacPro with 10.6.1 and ColorNavigator 5.2.5

This post has been edited by Gigapixel: Nov 7 2009, 03:45 AM

[tho_mas]

what can I do better ?

what's your target - softproof/printing?

[erick.boileau]

I target the monitor because I am waiting for the Epson 3880 since one month

Gigapixel : your contrast = 672 !
thank you I shall read the link but it is difficult for me to read German

I need a step by step calibration method
we have the same calibration device, if you are on skype ?! :-) my Skype name is ymages

This post has been edited by erick.boileau: Nov 7 2009, 06:04 AM

[tho_mas]

I target the monitor because I am waiting for the Epson 3880 since one month

so printing...
For softproofing/printing a contrast much higher than that of typical prints is not good.
Something between 300:1 and 400:1 is much better. Set your black point to 0.3cd/m2 to achive that.
At 100cd/m2 luminance you'll have a contrast of 333:1. That's very good... unless you are going to edit movies.

[erick.boileau]

so printing...
For softproofing/printing a contrast much higher than that of typical prints is not good.
Something between 300:1 and 400:1 is much better. Set your black point to 0.3cd/m2 to achive that.
At 100cd/m2 luminance you'll have a contrast of 333:1. That's very good... unless you are going to edit movies.

then for printing my settings are good

[tho_mas]

then for printing my settings are good

actually as a starting point, yes.
Again, I'd set the black point to 0.3cd/m2. Not only because of the print-like contrast but also beacause all the measurment devices are inaccurate in dark tonal values. Boosting the black point leads to a better calibration curve, mostly.
Too, I am finding the white point quite cold. 5800K should be better as an average. But if you feel comfortable with 6400K to start with, that's fine. You can adjust the white point to paper white under your typical viewing conditions when your Epson is there.
Few points regarding Color Navigator:
- make sure to download the latest version (5.2.5). On Snow Leopard older versions will produce inaccurate dark tonal values
- Do not set the calibration in Color Navigator to "contrast" mode as thus the white point is only reflected for the RGB chanels in the hardware but the gray axis will not be adjusted to the white point choosen in the target
- in preferences->measurment device set "color management" (I think it's default, but I'm not sure)

[erick.boileau]

actually as a starting point, yes.
Again, I'd set the black point to 0.3cd/m2. Not only because of the print-like contrast but also beacause all the measurment devices are inaccurate in dark tonal values. Boosting the black point leads to a better calibration curve, mostly.
Too, I am finding the white point quite cold. 5800K should be better as an average. But if you feel comfortable with 6400K to start with, that's fine. You can adjust the white point to paper white under your typical viewing conditions when your Epson is there.
Few points regarding Color Navigator:
- make sure to download the latest version (5.2.5). On Snow Leopard older versions will produce inaccurate dark tonal values
- Do not set the calibration in Color Navigator to "contrast" mode as thus the white point is only reflected for the RGB chanels in the hardware but the gray axis will not be adjusted to the white point choosen in the target
- in preferences->measurment device set "color management" (I think it's default, but I'm not sure)

yes I have the 5.2.5 version


I keep your advices for when I would have received the printer

many thanks

[tho_mas]

What you possibly want to check as well is the validation.
You can set the preferences to perform the validation automatically after calibration.
The short report is okay here… otherwise it takes too long.
This is actually nothing more than a comparison of the target values stored in the profile and the current state of the display measured with the same measurement device.
So it's nothing else than a consistency check of the profile. It doesn't tell you how accurate the calibration really is.
However it tells you something about the gray axis. The resp. values are marked red in my attachment. They should be below 1 DeltaE otherwise I would repeat the calibration.
What I always do after calibration (other than a visual comparison with a printed target in my viewing booth) is to simply check a gradation in Photoshop. It should not show any banding. Otherwise I would repeat calibration (eventually with slightly different target values for the white point).
But actually with Color Navigator it is really working very well "out of the box"… so I wouldn't worry too much about these values (I would worry about banding but have never seen any on my display with my target values).



This post has been edited by tho_mas: Nov 7 2009, 08:07 AM

[erick.boileau]

I going for climbing now and I check it this evening

thanks a lot

[Gigapixel]

Again, I'd set the black point to 0.3cd/m2. Not only because of the print-like contrast but also beacause all the measurment devices are inaccurate in dark tonal values.

This depends very much on the measurement device. The DTP94b used by Eric and by me is known to have the best response to dark values. My own experience tells me that a lower limit 0f 0.2 cd/m^2 leads to a visually neutral black.

Softproofing can be done via software (PhotoShop), since you would have to create a monitor profile for each and every paper type, which greatly differ in their properties (the black on matte papers is much lighter than on baryta papers).

With an illumination of ~100 cd/m^2 the Dmax even on the best baryta papers reportedly doesn't exceed 2.3, which is equivalent to a contrast of max 200:1. If a monitor is calibrated to such a low contrast, you visibly reduce its suitability for general work.

Boosting the black point leads to a better calibration curve, mostly.
Too, I am finding the white point quite cold. 5800K should be better as an average. But if you feel comfortable with 6400K to start with, that's fine. You can adjust the white point to paper white under your typical viewing conditions when your Epson is there.

I'd second the recommendation to set a white point of 5800 K. Here in Europe the viewing conditions are mostly 5000K and the extra 800 K for the monitor is a substitute for its lack of blueish UV-part of the spectrum.

Few points regarding Color Navigator:
- make sure to download the latest version (5.2.5). On Snow Leopard older versions will produce inaccurate dark tonal values
- Do not set the calibration in Color Navigator to "contrast" mode as thus the white point is only reflected for the RGB chanels in the hardware but the gray axis will not be adjusted to the white point choosen in the target

I would explicitly recommend the "contrast" optimization only for someone seeking higher contrast values. By the way, if you are calibrating near the default value of the monitor (6500 K), the Eizo CG-series is very linear across the gray range except for the very lowest black.

- in preferences->measurment device set "color management" (I think it's default, but I'm not sure)

Yes, it's set by default.

[erick.boileau]

thank you

then except a white point of 5800 K my settings are good

This post has been edited by erick.boileau: Nov 9 2009, 08:24 AM

[Gigapixel]

thank you

then except a white point of 5800 K my settings are good

Yes, your settings are good!
If you're happy with the white point I'd leave it at 6500 K. I regularly change between 6500K and 5800K...

By the way, I'd happily have my CG242W exchanged for a CG243W, despite the lighter black ;-)

[tho_mas]

The DTP94b

I use that one, too. And it's good. Still...

Softproofing can be done via software (PhotoShop), since you would have to create a monitor profile for each and every paper type

why for every paper? The target is to come close to a typical print scenario. And then use softproof to get a match for the particluar paper.
Too, and maybe more important, if you work at a too high contrast you are actually seeing less. We are always adapting to white. And with a too high contrast you have to re-adapt for the dark tonal values all the time. That's tiring to the eyes.

[Gigapixel]

I use that one, too. And it's good. Still...

OK, even the DTP94b is not the ideal measurement device. But neither is the Eye-One Pro, unfortunately, so there is none...

why for every paper? The target is to come close to a typical print scenario. And then use softproof to get a match for the particluar paper.
Too, and maybe more important, if you work at a too high contrast you are actually seeing less. We are always adapting to white. And with a too high contrast you have to re-adapt for the dark tonal values all the time. That's tiring to the eyes.

Assuming that your illumination is constant, even matte papers differ significantly in white point and contrast, which makes at least for a bunch of softproofing-capable monitor profiles. I prefer the method via PhotoShop.

Although it is correct that the human eye easily adapts to different white points, this really holds only in case of sequential, not parallel viewing. I for one want to compare the print with the image on the monitor simultaneously.

A contrast of 150:1 on a monitor is also tiring for the eyes...

[erick.boileau]

Yes, your settings are good!
If you're happy with the white point I'd leave it at 6500 K. I regularly change between 6500K and 5800K...

By the way, I'd happily have my CG242W exchanged for a CG243W, despite the lighter black ;-)

I got the CG243W for 1150 euro in UK

[tho_mas]

I prefer the method via PhotoShop.

me too

A contrast of 150:1 on a monitor is also tiring for the eyes...

2:1 also. And 1:1 even more :-)
Below 256:1 is critical of course. But I am talking about a contrast somewhere between 300:1 and 400:1 maybe.
If you set the softproof on such a display it's not changing everything.
But if you are working on a display with three times the contrast of the print... you literally have to start editing from scratch.

[Gigapixel]

me too
2:1 also. And 1:1 even more :-)

Really? I especially like 2:1 ;-) Fortunately we don't have to softproof newspapers which show only 10:1 ...

Below 256:1 is critical of course. But I am talking about a contrast somewhere between 300:1 and 400:1 maybe.
If you set the softproof on such a display it's not changing everything.

You're right, a value of 300:1 to 400:1 is perfectly manageable.

But if you are working on a display with three times the contrast of the print... you literally have to start editing from scratch.

That's part of the reason I switched to baryta papers...

[Czornyj]

Fortunately we don't have to softproof newspapers which show only 10:1 ...

...speak for yourself