I have a Canon EOS 1D MKII and a Canon Speedlite 580 flash unit.

The thing is.........................I can't get exposures correct when using flash.

All other light sources I can handle, and normally get good exposures.

I have read the instruction manual, but still can't get it right.

I normally use the flash on ETTL and use the camera on full manual to set shutter speed and aperture.

The returned images are normally under exposed by a long way, never over exposed, which leads me to think the flash power is not strong enough, which is either because I am using ETTL with manual camera settings....................or...............that I am to flash photography what the atomic bomb was to landscape gardening.

Can anyone give me a few pointers on this one

Many thanks

have the same problem with my eos 1ds II and the 430 speedlite! also on manual and TTL flash mode, the only thing I can think of will be to "overexpose" with the camera one or two stops. I rarely use the flash, it happen to me on a couple of weddings I did, the white dress had a lot to do also, (by reflecting too much light back), pictures with darker subjects were a bit better, but still underexpose on histogram). any ideas out there?

You may know this already, but just in case...

The "camera" exposure and flash exposure are calculated separately, which is why there are separate "exposure compensation" and "flash exposure compensation" (FEC) controls. So if you want to adjust the exposure of the subject, which I presume is being lit primarily by flash, then you adjust FEC, while the background brightness is generally adjusted by regular exposure compensation, or in your case by manual exposure. Until you change FEC or set the flash manually, you'll see the same subject lighting every time.

One other thing to mention: adjustments on the flash override adjustments on the camera, at least on Canon gear, so if you set FEC in both places the flash settings are what you'll actually get. It's a good habit to get used to doing it only one way to reduce confusion. If you use a body with built-in flash, even some of the time, it may be a good idea to get used to doing it in the camera. But then some flash settings can't be made in the camera, so you may be better off in the long run doing it all on the flash.

A good resource that's quick and easy is a DVD from "Blue Crane Digital" called "Understanding the Canon SPeedlite 580EX/430EX". You can buy it from B&H here for $20.

ARD: Been there, done that
I recommend you browse through this excellent compendium of insight re EOS flash photography, put together by the good guys at Photonotes.

For immediate results, set both your camera and flash to manual (no ETTL) control. Use a shutter speed of around 1/200 and set aperture at 5.6, or so. Take a shot. Tweak with flash exposure compensation on the 580EX for variable ambient light in the shoot environment. Not fancy but it works.

Pat

Without posting samples, it's hard to tell what your problem is. If your flash takes several seconds to recharge after a shot, you're probably expecting too much of it and need to upgrade to some studio strobes with more power than a battery-operated on-camera flash. Also, (as was just pointed out) flash exposure and ambient exposure are calcualted separately, so make sure you're adjusting flash exposure compensation instead of exposure compensation if you need more flash fill. Depending on subject coloration, you may need to dial in up to +2 stops of FEC, especially when shooting blonde Caucasian brides in white dresses against a white background.

Thanks for all the replies, pminicucci I'll check out the link

Here is a sample picture of my flash expertise lol

ARD,
The EXIF indicates that your photo has been taken at f/22, ISO 100 and 1/00sec. At f/22, you won't get much light in your camera.

Try something like ISO 400, f/8 and 1/125 sec!

Thanks, and you are right...........I think I have been forgetting basic camera skills with flash lol

You're welcome!

Shutter speed usually has nothing to do with flash exposure. The flash duration is very short and happens while the shutter is open. So dialing up shutter speed while stopping down is not going to do anything but underespose. The exposure is controlled by f/stop not shutter speed.

If shutter speed gets too high, you will see part of the shutter or get no exposure at all.

Ard,

You have my sympathy. This is why I almost never use flash. I've been photographing for over 50 years and any time I try to use a flash I forget something basic. Having (finally) mastered the point Howie just made, I recently tried using the built-in flash in my P&S at a concert, and,of course, got clear pictures of the people in the row ahead of me but pretty much black on the stage.

If I had thought, I would have realized that there was no way this dinky flash would reach to the stage.

As one of the other L-L posters (I forget who) quotes in his sig-block (from the Three Stooges, I think?): "I keep trying to think, but nothing happens!"

Or, as Homer Simpson syas, "Doh!"

with flash as the main source of light you normally use Manual and set the shutter at flash synch speed (although it's generally best to have high speed synch set as default on the flash)

ISO 200 or 400 work for most situations

set the lens opening for desired depth of field (or f8 for best lens performance from most lenses)

be sure the flash is set on auto for focal length (or the focal length you choose - if you're close or bouncing you may want to set the flash to a shorter focal length)

and be sure the flash is set on ETTL with 0 (or your desired compensation set on the flash - i usually end up with +1 with diffuser and/or bouncing, but this will vary with your setup, subject, etc.)

then, as always, CHECK THE HISTOGRAM

Many thanks to everyone who replied and helped out with this one.

EricM - your reply made me laugh, it's nice to know I'm not alone

I have tried a few shots today with flash, f8 at 1/125

The results were consistant, and I was happy to see an image illuminated by the flash.

This has given me a base line to work from, now I guess it is just trial and error.

i didn't like fiddling with flash or the results, and started to use flash as the only way to get wildlife photos of animals at night -- then George Lepp persuaded me that fill-flash for wildlife makes a difference -- it does.

then there was a post on this board about flash photos of kids and discussion of off-camera flash, light boxes, etc. this prompted me to do some research. the Strobist is interesting, but mostly useful for posed and controlled situations. i bought and tested a couple relatively inexpensive diffusers and found that the Gary Fong Lightsphere really works for hot-shoe flash indoors. Lumiquest has a kit that is compact enough to stick in the bag (which the Fong is not) with a variety of useful options, but is a bit fussy and doesn't handle bounce with verticals.

my other flash use is macro (also prompted by George Lepp) - certainly trickier to get natural looking results, but opens a wide variety of possibilities

flash is worth the trouble

If flash is a weakness- take time to make it a strength, try just messing around with it for a couple hundred shots... and use the histogram and in just MANUAL mode. I use flash for almost every circumstance.
Another word of advice, get enough power in that flash unit ( assuming you are using something other than that little pop up thingy)

Have fun

_
James

I think his post indicated that he is using a 580EX....plus the "1D" series do not come with a "pop up thingy"

Have been trying all sorts of different settings, shutter, focal length, flash powert etc. I think I'll start making a few custom functions to save time.

Flash is a whole new thing when you start exploring the possabilities


Once again many thanks for everyone's help