Reading the post on the forum for a few months I have not encountered too many testimonials for the V Series of pictures with digital backs. For shooting portraits in the studio and lifestyle oudoors is there a big disadvantage over the V series with the manual focus lens and the cable? Is the out of focus on the contax so helpful that so many have gone to a system that is no longer in production? I am planning to P30 digital back.

I shoot with a V-series Hasselblad and an older square chip. My problems with the camera include hitting focus - it's a real challenge, even with an Acute Matte split-image screen. I have a screen on order from Bill Maxwell which I am assured will improve the situation.

My greatest concern would be shooting vertical with the V-series and a rectangular chip. Mine is square, as I said, so I'm OK with the V-series. Obviously the 45 degree and waist-level finders are out, and the 90-degree finders are an option so long as they'll fit overtop of the back (they will not fit over top of mine)

Rotating the back is an option, but dropping it would not be an option (of course) The more you remove the back, the greater the likelihood of dropping it and getting dust on it.

And Really Right Stuff does not make an L-Bracket for the V-series so you have to flop it on the tripod if you want to go vertical without rotating the back.

As well, if you choose to just rotate the back you have to have both the vertical and the horizontal crops marked in the viewfinder which can be a pain.

However, I'm looking into a new back and I'll be considering staying with the V-series even with the shortcomings.

But the Contax is looking more and more interesting...

There are more than a few challenges with the V series and DB's. Focus is definitely one. With film there was some wiggle room to an OOF image, whereas with digital, if it ain't sharp, it ain't. I too have found focus a challenge, particularly for moving/breathing subjects, and I don't know if the V series is a good solution for this type of work. Mirror slap is another issue, anything less than 1/125th in my experience can be a problem when hand holding. Rotating the back isn't much of a deal for me, but the cable does tend to get in the way, and there is always the drop factor. I have a P25, and I don't find framing difficult, as much as it does not cover the whole frame it is close enough not to be an issue for me.

Having said all that, I still find the V series ideal for certain work, such as still life and interiors. I love being able to pop the back off of my Cambo WDS, and do pickup shots with the Hassy. I find it a very versatile combo. The image quality of the V lenses is pretty good on the P25, I think the P45/P30 would start to outresolve the V lenses, but I know of one shooter here in NYC that is very happy with his P30/503 setup, so I guess the P30 works well for him on this system.

I am looking forward to the new V lenses that Zeiss announced at PMA. The concept of new modern Zeiss design with today's DB's seems very promising, but until they hit the streets, it is just more wishful thinking which we have way too much of in MFDB world...

http://luminous-landscape.com/essays/pma07.shtml

Best,

Eric Zepeda

I have never used rhe V srioes but have six Hasselblad lenses from the 30mm fisheye to the 500/8 and they all perform quite well on Contax. The focus confirm is helpful but the Contax prism is bright and you can focus before manuall stop down (necessary since I use a Bill Maxwell brightened screen that only is good to 5.6 with split screen. For the 5.6 and 8 I xab usuallt focus quite well with just the ground glass.

I have two adapters that seem right on and have infinity focus for my 30, 40 IF, 2 50's (F and CF) 180mm and 500. I am adding when I can find a 110/2 and the 250nn superAchr.
When I winn the lottery I will look for the 300mm F 2.8 with 1.7

(Unless someone wants to sell me theirs. I will pay top dollar for mint condition.)

regards
Victor

PS I started with Kodak 16 MP went P25, then up to P45. P45+ comes in a few months I think. So my onvestment os quite high in the Contax platform. I do NOT see Sinar or the H6y as being all that great and compared to the Contax, which is more compact than a Canon with the Phase back. These systems are likely still year or more away in spite of the enthusiasm here on the forum.

Now, somebody, PLEASE buy the Contax rights (and boycott Kyocera till they give it up!)

when you put a P30 on the hass Vbody, the system shows its age....you need a cable (which is ugly and can fail) and there is no info transported becuase there are no contacts....i shot with a leaf back on hassV with a 501 and a 555eld, it worked, but it feels like a frankencamera....just not made for it....one of the advantages of the P30 is the fast shooting with great quality....if you shoot landscapes and take 1 shot every 5 minutes on a tripod, the camera really does not matter and i would not worry about using the V mount (especially since that mount is very versatile, you can put it on most 4x5 cameras, even the RZ)...but for people shooting, i would look at something that will give you a little better handling....contax, mamiya....the advantage of the mamiya is that you can use the same back on 645 and RZ....

Thanks, all of you who have replied. The comments are very helpful and explain why the

Hasselblald V Series is lagging far behind in the MF digital race. As an advanced amateur/semi-

professional I've ruled out Hass. H Series and the possibility of Hy6 mainly because of the sticker

shock associated with these systems - (among other reasons). Now I can erase V off my short

list.


While I am still seriously considering Mamiya RZ67 Pro IID - I loved RB67 years ago with film -

somehow I think that the Contax would be quicker and more versatile with portraits in the studio

and informal outdoor settings.


If anyone has suggestions for Contax resources in USA it would be greatly appreciated. (Not too

long ago it was mentioned that Contax equipment can be found for sale even brand new.) Also,

any sources for adaptors for Hasselblad lenses on Contax.


Thank you,

Richard

The MAM-1 is hassey adapter and bery expensive. The Novoflex I think still available at about $200. Try fotoHuppert. or shPhoto (Boris is a good guy and owns arsenal too)

Try there for Contax
Also an ebay shop in UK called Contaxfriend or something.

There are 2 Contax kits under 1000 on ebay right now

regards
Victor

Well, now I'm confused.

I shoot strictly landscape, black and white, always on a tripod. Starting to do more pano images as well and enjoying it - using Really Right Stuff gear. Process my own film and then scan on a Howtek 8,000 line drum scanner I bought. Tune image in CS3.

Up to this point most of my work has been with Hasselblad 500cm and Ebony 45SU. Recently bought a 503CW with the plan to put a digital back on it.

Couple of months ago I bought the Canon 1DS Mk II with the 16-24 and 70-200 L lenses. After very little time I've learned that was a mistake. Just can't get near the quality of image I expect for my work - find their lenses poor compared to Zeiss.

Now, in reading this post it sounds like some folks are not pleased with a digital back on the 503CW.

Please give me a little more detail as to the basis for this opinion. Before I add the 50 and 100 I Hassie lenses I'd like to feel more secure in my direction.

I'm planning on going with a 22MP back initially and work with that till the 39's come WAY down in price.

Also, any guidance between Leaf, Iexpress, Phase backs for landscape work would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jack

jack...there is nothing wrong with the hass V sytem and Dbacks...it works...the system just shows its age...no contacts, no info transferred....if you shoot landscape on tripod, take your time...there is no difference between any of the systems....it will work....
in regards to the canon...i had several DSLRs up to and including 1DsmkII, which is a great camera...but it won't give you Dback performance....also i think your choice of lenses was not the right one....i tried many canon zooms, they are all crap compared to pretty much any MF lens....the canon fixed lenses are better but still mostly poor compared to MF (the 100macro might be the exception....)
i believe that for your work, there is no need to change systems....switch to contax and try and find a WLF only to NOT have to use a sync between the back and camera? not worth it...you could switch to mamiya RZ and have a WLF and no cord.....but it does not seem worth the efford either....

my opinion about the Dbacks after testing them all is: phase is the best for commercial/people shooters..the combination of software and high iso, speed and raw quality is unsurpassed IMO.....second comes sinar/emotion..only drawback is the lower iso (which should not matter to you)....either way i strongly recommend testing them all.....the differences are small and are mostly in workflow....

any Dback will give you a much better file then the canons...much more what you are used to seeing from film....you already spent 11000 on the canons....a P21 or P20 would have given you better files for the same/less money.....

Hi rgmoore,

Why don't you take a look at the H3D-31 as well?

If you are in the need for a new camera body as well it might be the most economical way to do it and get brand new kit.

Jo S.x

Jack,

There is nothing wrong with the 503CW used with digital backs, on the contrary, they are rock solid. Given the nature of your work the combination of 503CW and Phase 22MP back will give outstanding results. Anyone who critisizes the Zeiss lenses have surely never used the 40IF/60/100/180, outstanding by any measure.

If you were shooting other stuff i may be offering different advice, as i myself have just ordered a P30 in Contax 645 fitting to replace the P20 in 'V' fitting that i have used for last 18 months without fault, mind you i wont be selling the 503CW or any of the lenses mentioned.

Regards, Gary.

Hi Jack,

I may have missed something here but if you work is strictly landscape, black and white and you currently shoot with hasselblad and large format 5x 4 inch ebonies..why do you feel the need to change from film to a digitlal back?..I think especailly with a 22mp back, from what you are used to, adn for what you shoot, you may well be dissaponited..and the costs differences will be huge.

Marc

...

I shoot architecture with a Gottschalt and an Aptus 75 .. Bringing along a Hasselblad V makes perfect sense as it's light and needs no battery. It's great for getting detail shots where no shift lens is needed. Focus can be a problem .. as the back is in a slightly different plane than where the film would have been. Having an A12 film magazine handy is good too in case of disaster with the digital back .. or any shot where you really have to get a wide shot in one go.

I recently bought a 150mm CF .. with the lens hood it's fantastic for studio portraits .. I wouldn't bother with my DSLR for this work anymore .. even with the lack of Auto focus ... just hook the back up to a computer and keep the detail window on the point of focus you want... you can check easily as you go along.

Ros

www.roskavanagh.com

Nonsense!! if this is happening then something is out of alignment with the camera or back!!!
I have shot hundreds of images wide open with bang on focus with a 503CW and Phase P20, this is not an issue.

I have to agree with Gary. If it's not sharp you need to adjust something. Do some focus tests and you may need to do some shimming. It is not a failing of the back or sensor plane but just a tiny variation in cameras. Do the testing with a range of lenses but it will show up more in the wides. Anything longer than 80mm will show very little change if any. I use a 132c on a 555ELD and have solid results. The V series is a solid system to put a back on. You can see the focus that you never noticed with film. The slight softness went unnoticed and no one ever cared unless they had a 20x lupe. Don't blame the camera/back, it's our eyes that are getting older.

Alex Jones, Digital Tech Pittsburgh

http://www.alexrjones.com/alexrjones/digitaltech.html