I am trying to figure out how to do use my Canon 24mm TSE to make a wider angle of view using shift and then later stitching (for interiors). I have found all kinds of info and all kinds of tripod head equipment for panos, etc. But I am mostly interested in using the shift lenses (I also have an Olympus 35mm shift) to make a perspectively correct combination of three or more exposures. For example I want to make a vertical shot but with no perspective distortion and wider than my 24mm TSE. Sorry if my description is not so clear. What techniques do people use and what specialized equipment is needed? Thanks for any input.

This is an excellent link. http://www.outbackphoto.com/workflow/wf_58/essay.html
All that is needed is an L bracket. However, if I am understanding you correctly, you won't be able to correct for perspective distortion AND do a 3 shot flat stitch. The shift (rise/fall) is used to correct for perspective distortion so you can't do both at the same time--the closest would be to have the camera perpendicular to the floor and using the shift for the pano.
Read this to understand shift (actually rise/fall) for correcting perspective distortion
http://www.outbackphoto.com/workflow/wf_42/essay.html

Hope these are helpful.

Diane

I've read those. I know about PC/TS lenses, I just have years of experience with the view camera and only a couple with the Canon DSLR. What I am basically looking for is a way to flat stitch to get the equivalent of a 18-20mm lens on a 35mm DSLR using the 24 TSE. I am guessing it is a combination of rise using a sliding or geared vertical bracket and shifting the lens.

For horizontal images......I do AP for a living and use this technique all the time. I use a sliding camera base made by Bogen, shift to side then slide to same side, expose repeat on other side. Oftentimes I shift 45 degree angle to get some rise or fall into the components of the stitch. I use an L bracket with above technique plus centered exposure for verticals.

ecpny,

The first link shows how to use either a focusing rail by RRS moving the camera body on the rail or by using an L bracket (if I understand correctly, I think that is what Kirk is describing except he is using a sliding camera base) where you move the camera from side to side of the L bracket(which has been marked previously with the 11mm marks and assuming the edge to be the third mark) along with shifting the lens. Mark both the vertical and horizontal sides and use it the same.

Are you wanting to do more than the 2/3 shots stitching the 4/6? Perhaps that's where we are misunderstanding. I have many many TS technique links but don't remember seeing anyone explaining that. Perhaps someone who does panos regularly could suggest what gear to use (try RRS--assume you already have looked at their brackets and focusing rails as you mentioned looking at pano gear http://www.reallyrightstuff.com/pano/index.html ).

Diane

I too am not clear if you're looking for a single row stitch or a multi row or matrix stitch. Keeping it simple, and using the TS-e...

Expose using the Outback Photo Method #2

When you ready to process:
1. Use the raw (assuming raw images) processor of your choice. NOTE:
Do not allow the system to make any lens, perspective changes.
2. When you develop (assuming 3 exposures), be sure that you process
each of the images identically (same exposure, etc).
3. Once processed, I strongly sugest you treat for noise (noise ninja, etc)
each of the images (again using identical treatment).

To build the Image:
1. Tools... use the application of your choice. I use PTGui as it works well
for me. Photoshop, and/or other aplications work well too, depending
upon the image characteristics, style, subject, etc.
2. Build the Image: Now here I run for cover. Frankly it's beyond the
scope of this answer to take you through this part of the process.
However, I feel confident that there are many sources to assist you
through this process. If you need/want refereals, please let me know.

The case defined here is pretty basic. Once you start to add rows of images together into a matrix image, you really need a panarama head to get the best results. Does that mean you can't do it hand held? No, but the results are not as
consistant and can be technically problimatic.

Good luck!

Jeffrey

Jeffrey,

I tried a relatively quick on tripod 3 shot stitched flat panel pano this morning and converted (as per your above recommendation as usual--though I don't do many) from ACR 4.1 and went into PSCS3 to stitch. The quickest was to try Photomerge. What a surprise (nice) to see that it handles the image files differently than PSCS2---in fact I tried again in PSCS2 just to refresh my memory. CS3 automatically (you had to check a box in CS2 and no masks) places them in layers with masks. For one of my tries, the pano was probably as good as I could do it manually, the second one would have been as good with perhaps a touch of correction to one of the masks. So---it appears to be better than CS2--though I didn't have time to inspect it closely.

Diane

Thanks to all who replied, I took the advice and picked up a monfrotto sliding rail and L-bracket at B&H. I will hopefully get time this weekend to test. By the way, Bogen/Manfrotto stuff isn't as nice looking as RRS but much much cheaper and it should do the same job. I might eventually get the Sigma 12-24 but I like the idea of higher resolution images using the falt stitch.

Thanks for reporting back about the Bogen/Manfrotto rails and brackets. I was unaware that they made an L bracket. My first, for a 20D, was a Kirk. When I got the 5D I bought a Kirk again, but then found that the new RRS had a place to attach a wrist strap (non grip--I gave up using a grip after the 20D) so sold the Kirk and bought the RRS.

I have considered buying a sliding rail for purposes other than panos and am glad to hear that Manfrotto makes one--I can live with 'less nice looking' if it will do the job LOL.

I shoot with a 15-30 now (have for years) for wide zoom and have also considered the 12-24. It has good recommendations. The 24 TSE is on my wish list. I rented the 24 but ended up buying the 45 which suits my shooting better generally.

Enjoy the TS --
Diane