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Luminous Landscape Forum > Equipment & Techniques > Medium Format / Film / Digital Backs – and Large Sensor Photography
ivan muller
hi to all,
I did a shoot over the weekend of some wine and brandy bottles with their boxes. To get rid of the refections on the boxes I used a cokin circular polarizer on my lens. I did notice that on a bright green box the colours came out more blue green in camera. The other colours were more accurate. I was wondering if the green is just a more difficult colour to photograph or is it the polariser. Would a better brand solve the problem?I havent done extensive test as I very seldom use the polariser. I did include a QP card for colour balance.

By the way my 150mm mamiya with extension tubes gave me more than acceptable sharpness on some very close focus images.
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Any thoughts on the matter?

Thanks Ivan
snickgrr
Back in the film days, my Harrison and Harrison polarizer would go greenish on me in the studio. I had written on the polarizer container the couple of CC filters needed to correct it and would throw that on without thinking.
Digital shooting is different now, if a reflection is a problem I shoot a frame without that reflection along with the main shot and mask in Photoshop. I shoot a lot of wine and food and bottle reflections I barely think about since it's so easy to work them any way you want.
mtomalty
Ivan

If all or most of the other colors are near accurate it is most probably the green ink used in the
label on the product you are photographing.

I haven't shot commercially for some time but for years many shades of green or browns
in fabrics and printed material were impossible to match on film.

I would suspect something similar would occur when shooting digital

Mark
DavidP
I would just chime in, I have always gotten green shift in the past on film with a polarizer and have used CCM filters to compensate.
RicAgu
It could be the quality of filter. I have a B&W circular Polarizer and a Sinar Circular Polarizer and never noticed the tint. The B&W I use on the RZ and the sinar on my Arca. I never shot chrome or still life so it didn't need to be so exacting. Now on a Phase I don't see it either with the the Sinar or the B&W.

I'll have to look at my files and see if I see a tint. I mostly use it when my subject is wearing glasses or if I am shooting in a heavily windowed office or room.
ivan muller
Hi to all,thanks for the feedback.

Unfortunately, as most of the time, this was a rush job and I handed back all the products with the images, so I couldnt do a test to see if it was the ink on the box, my filter or the camera. I don,t do this type of shoot often so it has been a very steep learning curve! In fact without photoshop I dont see how it could be done!

I will try to get a B&W polarizing filter as I believe they are superior. Cokin polarizers just make life easier as you just need one size. I wonder if there will be a difference between normal and circular filters?

Thanks Ivan
rljones
In film days, I noticed various color shifts when using polarizers. It wasn't until I standardized on B&W, which has less cast than most, that this ceased to be problem (or, at least, became a uniform one). I now only use B&W multicoated, circular polarizers in various sizes.

Regards, Robert
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