Was playing around today with my AFDII and some older MAnual Focus lens from my ProTL, But could not get it to work right?
I thought I would put the Body on Manual and choose a speed and then Manual move the f stops but it does not seem to work that way.
Does any body know where I can get a PDF or Help with using Manual Focus Lens with the AFDII.
I would really appreciate it,
Thanks
Snook

Hi Snook.
I place my AFDII on Manual and then set the aperture on the lens where I want it. Then I adjust shutter speed until I get a correct exposure reading.
Make sure you set the switch on the lens to "M" to control the aperture.

Ron

Simply it needs to look dark (stopped down) before you shoot

(unless you are shooting wide open)

S

Hi Snook – Let’s see if I got the question correct

I have two lens that are manual; Mamiya 300 f/2.8 and the Hartblei SuperRotator. What I do with these is set them both wide open then focus, after the focus is set I then set the f/stop to what I want. The body (AFD II) has the speed set then crossing my fingers I take the shot. I’ve found the most problems are the actual act of focusing correctly but all else seems to be okay.

Did I get the question correctly?

Hope it helps

don

Yeh I think you guys got it right.
I did not think it was going to be that much of a pain.
What if I am shooting with Strobes in or out of Studio?
I am also trying it with some old leafshutter lens' I have.
I have the 55/80/150 all 2.8 and was hoping to use them
I bought a 55-110 AF, but the focus distance is so far away I really do not think I will like this lens for much.
And the 35mm I have is too wide for portrait shots.
I guess the 120 macro is going to be the lens for me. And hopefully the new leafshutter lens..:+]

And am I mistaken to think in Studio with flash that I can just do everything manually..
Just set the camera on X for flash and then set aperture on the lens?

Thanks for the help
Snook

Snook – Sorry I can’t help with advise for shooting indoors as the only time the shutter is released indoors is when I make a mistake …..

My studio is where I am I at the time – the last was the South Rim of the Grand Canyon and attempting to get the focus set correctly in cold and blowing snow is not a fun thing especially when your fingers are turning blue! However, when the weather is great and I can spend the time necessary, manual is the way to go! One of the reasons I enjoy shooting manual so much is that it slows you down and you get to think about what you are doing and what you want to achieve, sort of “old school” before everything turned “auto”.

Wish you luck with getting the correct help with studio work.


don

Anybody know what a good price for a Mamiya 645 120mm Macro should be?
Thanks
Snook

Which version?
I paid $645 for a brand new Pro TL version. Completely manual but works great on the 645 AFDII. I have seen the "AF" version (still manual focus but auto aperture) going for $1150. I have not seen any prices on the new "D" version yet.

Ron

Hi Snook
I would take a look at the 75-150 zoom as it focuses closer than the 55-110. Also they have a new 45-90 zoom coming out next year. I have the 120 AF Macro & it is an excellent lens in quality & build. On ebay they sell for about $1000.00 for the non D version.

Denis

It took me a while to figure out my MF 120mm (non AF) so you are not alone. The key is the AEL button on the top right of the camera.
1. Set the camera to M (manual)
2. open the aperature ring up all the way and manually focus
3. set the aperature ring to your desired F stop
4. this is the key; press the AEL button for about a second and the camera will automatically set the shutter speed!
5. confirm exposure with the histogram
6. reset speed to reshoot for ETTR
7. Done
I hope this helps
Marc

Sure But what has to be done in Studio. Also why is focusing import before hand? Because the finder goes darker?
How can I just shoot full Manual in studio?
I want to shoot at 125th at F8.
I cannot just put the camera on 125th and Lens On f8. meter studio Flash 125th f8 and shoot?
Can some one explain further?
Does any body know how much the 120mm macro"D" is going to cost?
Also I heard it is basically the same as the older 120mm but with some optical changes only?
Thanks a lot
Snook

I've never worked in a studio or with studio flash so I can't help you there
Marc

Anybody else care to explain a little better. Iam still fustrated over this issue.
How and the heck can some one use a 120mm macro and do all the stopping down etc.. before pulling the trigger.
I do not think that is going work
Are these options for Landscape / architecture guys.
How in heck could some one use a manual focus lens by stepping down for Portrait?
Sounds like a BIG pain in the A$$ if you ask me.
Would anybody care to explain it is this way?
I thought if I did everything manual... RE: set the Speed and aperture in studio that I could shoot what I manually want to expose the camera?
Why would that not be?
Again I am talking studio with flash!! Not trying to meter or anything.
I know I want to shoot at 125 F11.. I cannot just put the camera on these numbers and shoot?
What the hell is the stopping down achieving?
Thanks for any further explanation.
Snook

What do you mean by put the camera on 1/125,f11? do you mean set it with the camera dials? you cannot set the aperature through the cameras dials, only with the aperature ring. Only the AF lenses allow you to set aperature with the camera dials. On a manual lens you must stop down using the aperature ring and then meter (AEL button) for exposure, you then can adjust speed with the camera dial.
I hope I understand your question?
Marc

120mm Manual: Click to view attachment

Snook,
as you may have noticed the camera doesn't interact with the manual lens.
so you have to set up the desired aperture yourself.

So why is it call stopping down? I and other assumed that you want to focus before you shoot.
Doing so as perfectly as possible require that you can see what you do. So that means having as much light as possible through the viewfinder.
If your lens is set up at 11 what you see through the viewfinder must be pretty dark. So you have to set your lens at is max aperture to see what you will focus on. Once your focus is done you then set up your aperture to 11...
the action to set your lens from wide open to 11 (in your case) is what is called stopping down.

then you shoot.

Use your flash meter and set your lighting where you want it. ie, 1/125, f/11
Set the shutter speed on the camera to 1/125. Don't worry about the aperture setting.
Set your camera on a tripod and with the lens wide open, focus on your subject.
Manually stop down the lens to f/11 and fire away.
Check the histogram and adjust the lighting if necessary.
Works great for stationary subjects but a lot of work for anything else.
If you want the camera to stop down for you, you will need to buy the AF version of the lens. Still manual focus but you will be able to set the aperture with the camera and it will stop down for you when you shoot.

I just do not get why it has to stop down.. Why does it have to go dark?
Anyways thanks for the replies.
I do understand that you have to set the Aperture Manually on the lens.
What I was wondering is why do I have to open up to focus?
I was thinking.
Put the camera for 125/th (In camera obviously) and set Aperture (On lens) to F11 or F 8 whatever my lights say and then just shoot and manually Focus!
Why the stopping down and dark viewfinder?
I am definitely missing something.
I can understand all the process if you need to shoot with camera metering or some kind of auto mode... But when you wanting to shoot manual Speed/Aperture/focusing...
What is the problem..?
Thanks
Snook

Hello Snook,

I'm really sorry not to have known you in Chile when i did live there.

Well I only have experience with the old Mamiya 645 series; not with the new AF series, but i'm almost sure that Mamiya left the mechanical stop-down lever out in their new AF-mount. So no "auto-aperture"like lens operation we take granted for since the times of the auto-takumars.
This means the lens aperture is always the final one. No open diafragm for easy focusing. I guess it's impossible to focus with an closed down diafragm of f/8 or darker. ( split image doesnt work, microprism doesnt work, MAYBE only a simple matte focusscreen )
Anyway why don't you try it out?

Saludos from Costa Rica.
Tadeuz

Focusing is easier with the lens wide open that is all 1. brighter viewfinder 2. less DOF so focusing on your main subject is more isolated. The camera cannot close the aperature when you press the shutter release!!!!! Look at the mounting flange of the lens and compare it to an AF lens there is no screw for the camera to autofocus with and there are no electrical contacts for the camera to set the aperature so the camera can only set the shutter speed since the shutter is in the camera not the lens.
Marc

you don't have to set your lens wide open if you think and can achieve the proper focus. Nobody will be mad at you and it's not illegal.

It's like proper lighting you don't have to use it but you do because you think it's better to achieve the image you want.

Why the viewfinder is darker when the lens is set on another aperture than wide is simply because the diaphgram doesn't allow lot of light to pass thru.

Try it. Set your lens at 16 look thru the viewfinder and keep looking then open the diaph you'll see it become lighter

Again try something to figure out what happen when you fire.
Put an AF lens on your camera. Set up a long exposure let say 2 sec. set the aperture to 16 here from the camera as it is an AF, look at the lens, not thru the viewfinder, so you face the lens, adn shoot you see the diaph close down... and when the exposure is done it comes back wide open.