QUOTE (sojournerphoto @ Jan 30 2008, 06:11 AM)
I just use bicubic smoother in CS3 (or CS2 or elements) and if it's a big blowup add a bit of grain. You can only goso far, but I'm often surprised at what looks aceptable. My bets was a 0.7Mp file from a P&S enlarged to 16 by 12 inches and printed on canvas. It was a sunset with little detail and the canvas hides a lot - I did have to be careful with the edges though as the P&S jpeg was way oversharpened for that size print.
Mike
I had been uprezzing with Bicubic Smoother with my 1DMikII files. That was OK up to 13x19 but when I started making 16x24, 20x30 and 24x36 inch prints the file sizes became unwieldy. However, I kept that workflow for a while because it gave me the option of using output sharpening suited to the media, resolution and printer-type.
I never found Genuine Fractals to be better than Bicubic Smoother.
More recently I have switched to up-interpolating on-the-fly using Hybrid Interpolation and Smart Sharpening in Qimage. SMart Sharpening is coordinated with output size and resolution, media type and printer type.
At worst, the prints up to 24x36 are equal in quality to my old way, and most often they are crisper and cleaner. The only "sharpening" I do now is what I consider to be Capture Sharpening using Focus Magic, which actually is a deconvolution program that eliminates the blur caused by demosaicking the image. Qimage takes care of the output sharpening.