My main interest is close up and macro in nature - mostly plants and insects. It is important for me to have a ball head that allows "smooth" motion under partial tension. I have recently been using a Kirk BH-3 and find it terrible. It is definitely not "smooth as silk" as their ads state. No matter how I adjust the tension screw the ball catches and grabs when I move the camera. Often I want to move very little - just a mm or so - and the ball jerks and grabs which makes small adjustments very frustrating.

I sent the BH-3 back to Kirk and they stated "it is working just like all the others. Nothing can be done."

Has anyone else found a ball head that uses arca style plates that has a partial tension that actually works smoothly? I want to get it right this time since I can't afford to buy many more heads.

Also, has anyone disassembled a Kirk BH? I would like to find instructions so I might be able to find some way to make the BH-3 smoother. I have had good luck with other mechanical devices, such as fishing reels using various lubes like teflon grease to provide smoothness under variable tension. I don't want to try this on a ball head unless I know I can open it up to clean out any failed lubrication.

Thanks,

Jack Kramer

I don't know if Kirk specifically recommends this... but you might give this a try.

Markins recommends using a drop of WD-40 on a cloth rag to rub on the surface of their ballheads, then use a dry rag to rub off the excess. I've done this several times if when things start to get a little less than perfectly smooth with my M20. It lasts a month or more depending on my use of the head, and hasn't adversely affected anything.

Note, just use a drop on a rag - don't spray the ballhead or anything.

Give it a try and see if it helps!

They're old news for most folks these days, but we've tried lots and found none smoother than the good old Arca-Swiss B-1 under partial tension such as you describe. "Glassy" smooth might even be a better adjective. Haven't tried any new ones, but our 20-year old models are tops. Wear? I don't think so, because they've always been that way.

Have you considered a geared head rather than a ballhead? I don't have any experience but look at something like a Bogen/Manfrotto 405 "

"Designed especially for 35mm and medium format camera shooters who need both speed & precision, the 405
is a great three-way head with bubble levels easily seen in two axes no matter the orientation of the camera. Meaty rubberised knobs can either completely disengage the gear mechanism for a quick rough estimate of position or offer the finest exacting placement for even a macro shot. Cranks allow 360 degrees pans and +90 to -30 degrees of frontal or lateral tilt. "

Add a macro focusing rail and you're good to go ... very precisely..


Andy

i'm very happy with my old Linhof

not happy with my RRS BH-40. understand that the BH-55 is a different design and works well, but i don' have direct experience

Jack
I have been using RRS BH55 for several months and have no complaints about smoothness under tension. They have many tools for use with macro and you might check out that section of their web site. A nodal slide or a focusing rail might solve your problem instead of buying a new head.

Tom

Thanks for all the great suggestions. A few clarifications.

I have used WD-40. This is what Kirk recommends. Doesn't help on the BH-3.

I have geared heads, macro rails, and lots of other equipment for use at home/lab. The smaller ball head is for use in the field where I want one configuration to carry, often on long all day hikes.

Based on these replies and those on Luminous Landscape if looks like the Markens M10 or M20 would solve my problems for a smooth tension requirement. When I get the chance to try one I'll decide. I definitely will not buy any more camera equipment by mailorder without hands-on evaluation. I sure do miss the days when there were more camera stores with all the goodies and staff that knew what they were selling!!! (showing my age)

Any comments on the Markins from actual experience? Especially anyone who uses a ball head in the field for 1:1 or greater magnifications.

Jack