Come to Newfoundland

July 1, 2024 ·

Greg Czarnecki

It was a wet start at the Gander airport as we walked down the ramp onto the tarmac. I gathered our baggage, rental car keys and gazed out the exit door to sheets of rain and a hundred cars in the parking lot. I turned back to the rental car desk. “It’s raining really hard. Is it possible for you tell me the exact location of our rental car?” In less than a second Tracey was on her feet and out of the Enterprise rental booth, “Let me show you the way I go through the terminal in bad weather.” She walked me through the Baggage area into the Departure area, through another doorway into a large reception area. “When the door is open, up the stairs is the 9/11 museum.” We went down another hallway to a small side exit door. “You car is parked next to that green Kia Soul.” Sharing thanks, hardly wet I reached our vehicle. This is another memory to more than a dozen acts of kindness from our visits to Newfoundland. Generosity is the way of life in Newfoundland.

On the tragic day of September 11, 2001 all airspace in the United States was closed, but there were more than 250 passenger planes in the air coming to the United States. Many were diverted to airports along the east and west coasts of Canada. Gander International Airport stood out as unique. During and after WWII long and wide runways were built to refuel transatlantic aircraft and accommodate large passenger jets. The planes quickly came to Gander on 9/11 one after another and in a short time 38 aircraft of all sizes had landed. Many were jumbo jets. They were parked nose to tail along one of the two runways with 6595 passengers and crew. For a day the passengers had to stay with their aircraft while officials assessed the challenging logistics. It was a massive task, since the population of Gander had nearly doubled in size.

World Trade Center beam at the Gander Airport

Gander had a trained Emergency Management Team that organized for hospitality. When passengers left their planes for an immigration check they were given hot food and quickly moved to hotels, motels, homes and gymnasiums. A honeymoon couple was given a cabin. In Newfoundland fashion the guests were treated like long lost cousins. In their new homes the townspeople provided tours of the area, arranged bowling matches and concerts by local bands. Local food, even stewed moose was featured. This story of this warm kindness led to the production of an uplifting award winning musical, Come From Away. Newfoundland is indeed a special place.

From the Gannet colony in Cape St. Mary and the Puffin preserve at Witless Bay in the south to the Viking settlement at L’Anse aux Meadows in the north Newfoundland is filled with amazing locations. Jutting strongly out into the Atlantic Ocean, Newfoundland (sometimes called “The Rock”) is not just one island, but thousands of islands. It has are over 6000 miles of coastline with hundred of bays and coves. So many these spots are easy to reach on good roads. Many locations feature quaint names and atmosphere to match. It never gets quite warm in the North Atlantic with clouds and changing weather the order of the day.

At the edge of the North American continent, Newfoundland has a varied geology. The western portion contains some of the oldest rocks on earth. There are number of trails in the east with visible fossils of ancient ocean creatures. The middle section was scoured in the conflict of continental drift and glacial movement. For photographers this presents interesting terrain. There are scenic ponds all over the countryside, often overlooked by sharp towering ridges. The scale of this terrain offers endless photo opportunities.

Cod fishing in Newfoundland waters is legendary. Since the 1500s fisherman of many nations have plied its rich fishing grounds. In the last century, the 1950s brought the introduction of factory ships. Trawlers netted huge catches, peaking in volume by the late 1960s. Catches then declined and by the early 1990s the cod stocks had collapsed. As a last resort the government imposed a fishing moratorium. This meant thousands of small and large catch fisherman lost their means of existence. Signs of the socioeconomic disruption can still be seen in almost every community. The situation has improved today with fish stocks carefully monitored. The primary catch is crab and lobster, along with cod.

Spring and early summer bring the arrival of icebergs. They travel from the ice shelf in the arctic and move between the coast of Greenland and Labrador to reach Newfoundland shores. They come in all shapes and sizes from “Bergie Bits” to highrise buildings. A fickle lot, icebergs float in the wind and currents. It’s wise to photograph an iceberg today because by tomorrow it may change shape or move to a new location.

Newfoundlanders are proud of their heritage and culture. If you visit, take advantage of all it has to offer. Hike miles and miles of coastal trails. Stay at a local Bed & Breakfast. Try a Figgy Duff or Jigg’s dinner. Sample some Screech and kiss a cod. Taste Partridge berries. Eat a cod tongue. Take in a kitchen or shed party. Visit a local musical show. Attend the professional production of “Come From Away” in Gander.

The abundance of majestic terrain in Newfoundland offers wonderful opportunities for exploration. It is home to Terra Nova National Park and Gros Morne National Park, along with 32 provincial parks. There are 5 World Heritage sites. For photographers, discovery and a rich environment combine for striking photographs. It is a special place to capture a masterpiece and perhaps even more.

Greg Czarnecki is a retired professional photographer. With his wife, Sue, they pursue the inspiration of amazing natural locations. Their work can be viewed at cdphotogroup.zenfolio.com

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